My additional way






My using materials

  • Roll film tank: LPL Stainless Tank 120
  • Roll film reel: LPL Stainless Reel 35 and 120
  • Picking film from magazine, film retriever: Konica Film Picker 3
  • Water tub for keeping constant temperature, made of Styrofoam.
Chemicals for developing
  • Water, using pre-developing.
  • Developer: Kodak D-76 (1:1)
  • Stop bath: Water or 1.5% acetic acid solution.
  • Fixer: Fuji Super Fujifix or Kodak Rapid Fixer.
  • Hypo-clearing solution: Fuji QW
  • Water-drop free agent: Fuji Drywel

Films I usually use,135 size of Kodak Plus-X pan 5062, 120 size of Kodak Plus-X pan professional 6057, Fuji Neopan 400 PRESTO and ILFORD FP4 Plus.   These films developing D-76(1:1) are obtained good result of matching with Oriental New Seagull G paper, I feel.

I have "pre-developing, presoak "process before pouring the developer into the tank.   It pour the water of proper temperature into the tank, then, stir continuously from 30 seconds to a minute.
Good points of this process are,

  1. Prevent development blotch.
  2. No remaining stain.
  3. Film temperature put near to temperature of developer.
and so on. But do during long time, image contrast is decreased.

The temperature control of chemicals are using water of 20 degrees C in a Styrofoam water tub.  Cups in each chemicals are put in it and a tank during developing when not stirs time to keep temperature between developing


Developing time

Examples of 135 size Kodak Plus-X pan 5062 film.

  • Tank:  LPL tank 120, two roll together.
  • Developer:  Kodak D-76(1:1) 20 degrees C (68 degs.F).
  • Stirring:  Continuous during first 1 minute, after that is two times in 5 seconds every 30 seconds, headstand stirring method.
Luminance scale* Time(min.) Examples
5 to 6 6.5 to 7 Snapshot at cloudy day.
7 6 Snapshot at fine day.
8 to 9 5 to 5.5 Scene of seaside, snow, or including strong reflecting light.
*Luminance scale: It is difference of intensity of light between the highest area and the lowest in the object.  It is measuring by spotmeter.



Most important thing for making fine negatives is using fresh chemicals.  Using old developer influences images, fog increase, obtain weak negatives.  Using old stop bath and fixer influences that it is difficult to remove chemicals from film, then it is cause of contamination of film.  I advise you the chemicals exchanges when it is used half of capacities that is written on each chemical's packages.

It is important for storage that its parts between fixing and drying.  You must processing by new fixer, enough washing until stain of base is disappeared.  Example of mine, washing for at least 30 minutes even if it's using with Hypo-clearing solution. If water temperature is below 20 degrees C, it pour water control of 20 degrees C in the tank and stir continuous during 5 minutes, before Hypo-clearing solution process.